Clothes on film

Two-part BBC drama The 7.39 could have been your average ‘man meets woman and has an affair’ tale. However, the overall verdict has been one of admiration at not only the amazing acting from its star players but also the script, which took the audience on an emotional rollercoaster throughout its glorious two hours. But again, often overlooked is the costume, in this case contemporary. The story of the female lead, Sally Thorn, played by Sheridan Smith with a wonderful naturalness, is particularly clearly told through what she wears (costume design by Lucinda Wright). Carl Matthews (believably played by David Morrissey) is stuck in a rut. Tired of his job,…

SPOILERS THROUGHOUT Clearly Us (2019) director Jordan Peele is as interested in the craft of costume as a tool for storytelling as any means available to him (props, sets, score, bunnies). Peele’s costume designer for his film, Kym Barrett, is highly proficient, a veteran, with such memorable titles as Romeo and Juliet (1996), The Matrix (1999) and The Nice Guys (2016) under her belt. Her contribution is specific and considered – the ‘cut like’ jagged edges in Lupita Nyong’o’s blood soaked attire as Adelaide testament to Barrett’s knowledge of the subtle communication costume can achieve. It is, then, somewhat of a shame that Peele insists on everything in his story…

Contributor Birdie McAra explores the fantabulously non-male gazey world of Birds of Prey. MINOR SPOILERS Movies that feature contemporary fashion, particularly high-end and particularly for women, are a tricky sell costume wise. While men’s semi-formal to formal attire is generally shaped around the fundamental guise of the lounge suit, women’s clothing has a lot more avenues and possibilities. In addition to colour and pattern there is shape and form, which can vary dramatically for the fashionable wearer. What can vary dramatically can also date dramatically and this can be major stumbling block for costume designers. Films centred around the world of fashion, or those that include a lot of fashionable…

This is an effortlessly chic touch from the 1960s; the subtle way in which Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant sets Joan Holloway (Christina Hendricks) apart from the pack. A straightforward loosely tied scarf around the handbag and Joan is the most stylish woman in the world’s most sexist office: Black leather frame handbag with burnt orange lucite handle. Front decorative flap pocket. Gold tone frame and clasp. Silk orange, red and purple geometric print scarf knotted around the handle. The bag could be very dark green, or blue, it is difficult to tell. The quality matt finish would suggest genuine leather, maybe even pigskin. Gold tone is gold coloured…

The Warriors (1979) has transcended the label of ‘cult classic’ to now simply be regarded as ‘classic’. A barebones plot, but briskly directed by action maestro Walter Hill, this gang warfare movie was never so much about the fighting as the clothes. During the memorable opening credits sequence for example, admire the matching yellow satin jackets, striped jersey sweaters and army coats worn by the gangs as they march the subways of NYC as if strutting the runways of Milan. Frankly, by today’s standards, it can all look faintly comical. Though in the late seventies, when downtown New York was something of a no-go area at night, even a man…

Notably since London Fashion Week (15th – 19th February), Disney has extensively promoted costumes from Oz the Great and Powerful. During Fashion Week, William Tempest and Deniz Berdan ‘inspired by’ dresses were featured along with Nicholas Kirkwood shoes made in conjunction with Selfridges. Since 28th February, four costumes from Oz have been on display at Selfridges’ flagship store in London: a dark grey period suit worn by James Franco as Oscar Diggs, a green sequin dress worn by Rachel Weisz as Evanora, a white tulle dress worn by Michelle Williams as Glinda, and the Wicked Witch costume worn by… well, go see the movie. All costumes in Oz the Great…

Natalie Portman’s behind the scenes movie site MakingOf are running an exclusive interview with The September Issue director R.J. Cutler. He discusses the challenges he experienced making the piece and his thoughts on its main star, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. The September Issue is a documentary following all the work that goes into producing an issue of monthly fashion bible Vogue. The film focuses specifically on the September ’07 edition, which was the single biggest issue (840 pages) of a magazine, any magazine, ever produced. Chiefly though The September Issue is about renowned (infamous or famous, depending on your point of view) Vogue head honcho Anna Wintour. Given that she…

The subtle differentiation of character through costume design in Moon. Contributor 2 Comments 8 Jun ’10 12 Jul ’13 11 Nov ’11

How Richard Burton’s character in Villain (1971) dresses to impress and intimidate. A preview of Clothes on Film editor Christopher Laverty’s article on the vibrant costume design of Dick Tracy for Arts Illustrated magazine. Truly unique, Dick Tracy is as close to a comic strip brought to life as any film before or since. This was director and star Warren Beatty’s goal; not to interpret the comic, but to paint it directly onto a cinematic canvas. He achieved this by embracing the superficial qualities of the painted page, the bright colours, exaggerated structures, madcap caricatures, and placing them front and centre. Dick Tracy is an all knowing pantomime. The original…

After that surprising snub by the Academy (not even a nomination) and BAFTA, Black Swan costume designer Amy Westcott has finally been rewarded, with a Costume Designers Guild (CDG) Award for Excellence in Contemporary Film. This was a tough category, too. Jeffrey Kurland has hardly been mentioned, apart from by the public, regarding his almost entirely bespoke costumes for Inception. Have the Guild responded to the recent, very public controversy between Westcott and Black Swan contributors Kate and Laura Mulleavy, i.e. Rodarte? Perhaps, yes, and we would not begin to suggest this is a bad thing either. Moreover the effectiveness of the CDG lies in their broad distinction between genres,…